An Education in Wine Aging
As another
year passed and one of my favorite activities occurred, Kacia’s Birthday Wine
Find, I found myself in my happy place of categorizing my new treasure trove of
bottles.
Before
a new wine is entered into my database and stored in my cellar, I read up on
it, seeing its professional wine scores, history, tasting notes, and, most
importantly, the recommended year to drink it. It was during this recent
categorization fest and the entry of a 20-year-old Australian Syrah into my
collection that I really started to ponder the rules for determining what does
and does not make a wine able to age.
Wine
never stops evolving. According to the popular publication Wine Enthusiast,
once in bottle, the alcohols and acids of the wine continue to react with one
another, forming new compounds. This leads to changes in color, aroma, and
taste. For example, a red wine’s color will fade over time from a bold ruby hue
to that of tawny or orange, and a white wine’s color will deepen from a pale
yellow or gold to amber or brown. Aromas and flavors will go from their primary
and secondary notes like plum, pepper, and rose, and will develop into tertiary
notes which include such descriptors as dried fruit, earth, and mushroom. Many
wines will eventually mature past their prime and can take on hostile notes
like vinegar, making the wine undrinkable.
So,
how does one determine when is the best time to drink a wine? I have heard
answers ranging from every wine can be aged for decades, to wine purchased from
a small and local winery must be consumed immediately. Both of these statements
are wrong. The basic truth is most well-made wines can age three to five years,
at the lower level for the majority of whites. On top of that, there are a
variety of factors that wine consumers can keep in mind that will aid them in
determining just how long a bottle can last.
First
and foremost is the structure of the wine. Wines with high acidity and tannin
levels are able to age. In fact, wines with higher tannins tend to smooth out
with time, allowing for a stronger fruit note and a less drying feel in the
mouth. Wines that are well balanced, meaning that the body, tannins and acidity
all work together and do not overpower one another, tend to show the ability to
age as well.
The
type of wine is also a big factor when it comes to the age factor. As
previously mentioned, still wines tend to last at least three to five years
after being bottled, with rosé style wines being the exception and typically
tasting better within a year or so. According to Wine Folly, some of the
more ageable red varieties include Nebbiolo, Tempranillo, Sangiovese, and
Cabernet Sauvignon. Wine Enthusiast sites Sémillon, Riesling, Chenin
Blanc and Furmint as some of the more ageable whites. Sparkling wines can be aged, and many experts
will say are better after an additional year or two in the bottle. Thanks to
the sugar levels, sweet wines are very ageable, and fortified wines like Port
can easily age for ten, twenty, even thirty years, with the exception of
Manzanilla and Fino Sherries.
The remaining factors depend on
the grapes and where they came from and the wine making process. Quality grapes
are naturally going to improve the quality of the wine. Wines housed in oak,
especially varieties like Chardonnay and Albariño, will typically be able to
benefit from some extended shelf life. Adding extra sulfites – yes, all wines
contain some level of sulfites as it is a byproduct of the winemaking process,
don’t get me started on the sulfite haters – will help give wine a nice aging
boost as well. A wine’s region can also play a part, as there are particular
areas throughout the world, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Napa Valley, German, that continually
produce ageable wines. The particular vintage also needs to be kept in mind.
Even the strongest of regions and grape varieties known for wines of immense
aging potential can suffer from a year of weather mishaps like too much rain,
hail, overly hot temperatures, etc. and reduce its typical age trajectory.
Another thing to consider is how
a bottle of wine was stored. A poorly kept bottle will cause the wine to age
faster or gain undrinkable characteristics. The general rule of thumb is that
wine should be stored in a dark area with a constant temperature, preferably
ranging between 53- and 57-degrees Fahrenheit. Also, bottles with a cork should
be placed horizontally in the wine rack to prevent the cork from drying out and
allowing excess oxygen in.
Considering all of these
elements, a person can generally get a decent idea of the longevity of their
wine. However, when in doubt, go to the experts. This can include reviewing the
winery or winemaker’s notes. Most wineries want the consumer to enjoy their
wine when it is at its best, as they want them to come back for more, and they
will include this information in their description. Another option is to look
up professional wine scores. Between being trained in what to taste and look
for, as well as having the ability to communicate with the winery, these
experts and critics can give an excellent drinking bracket. Two of my favorite
go-tos are Wine Spectator and the Vivino app. Sure, these both cost, but they
give so much useful information that it will make a person feel like they know
the bottle of wine’s every secret. Wine.com also has a wealth of information about
most of the bottles they sell.
In the end, though, each person
has to determine a research method of their own. Some wine lovers will only
keep a handful of bottles at a time to enjoy within a few months, others will
store wines they have personally tried and determined will age well, others
will just take a gamble and drink what they want when they want, some will buy
a case to be consumed at various stages in the wine’s life, and then there are
the obsessive, like myself, who will study a wine until they are blue in the
face. The thing to remember is mistakes will happen. There will be instances
where a wine is consumed too early, or a wine from a memorable trip will be
held too long and become undrinkable, but each instance is a learning
experience that takes a wine lover a step closer to understanding this
mysterious beverage.
Whatever your methods, whatever your wine drinking beliefs
are, I raise my glass of Clarendon Hills Astralis 2004 Syrah, just at the peak
of perfection and ready to go downhill, to you, and I hope the wine you are
drinking tonight, no matter the age, brings a smile to your face. Cheers!
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