Pinot Country in Colorado
Pinot noir in Colorado? There’s no way this grape variety
could grow here. However, tucked up high near the towns of Paonia, Hotchkiss,
and Cedaredge lies the West Elks AVA, a haven for pinot noir lovers.
Located
about an hour southeast of Palisade and its Grand Valley AVA, the West Elks is
home to approximately 15 wineries and cider houses. Due to its higher
elevations, vines enjoy a growing season of warm days and cool nights, creating
a nice level of acidity in the wines, and the perfect growing environment for pinot
noir.
This
noble red grape got its start in the portion of France known as Burgundy, and a
pinot from this area is now one of the most sought-after wines for both wine
lovers and collectors alike. With a thin skin, this grape is easily susceptible
to disease and environmental hazards such as sunburn and frost, therefore it has
to be planted in the perfect plot of land, even then causing hardships for
vineyard owners. However, for those willing to fight for this difficult vine,
the rewards of a well-made pinot noir are like none other. Typically, with a
light to medium body, low tannins and high acidity, a pinot will be silky with
varying notes of cherry, raspberry, strawberry, smoke, clove, sandalwood,
mushroom, and forest floor. Drinking pinot noir can be an indescribable
experience.
West
Elks AVA pinot noirs have a charm and taste distinctly their own. This
distinction is primarily seen in the creamy nature of the red fruit and berry
notes found in most of these wines. My first experience with this red beauty
from the Paonia area was in October 2020, when we treated my mom to a couple of
wineries for her birthday. With dramatic views of the West Elk Mountains, a small-town
American charm, exceptional wines, and a majority of the wineries offering an
actual Colorado pinot noir, I was instantly taken by this place.
Our adventures that day took us to
Black Bridge Winery. Part of the Orchard Valley Farms, a beautiful spot where
you can pick your own produce and shop in their market for local cheeses,
meats, teas, etc., the wine tasting counter was located in the bustling store.
Decked out in their Halloween and harvest best, with a pumpkin patch we of
course had to wander through, we instantly fell in love with this place. And,
with almost 20 wines on their list, we instantly fell in love with their wines.
During this first visit here, I had to make sure and include anything with pinot
noir, which at that time meant their 2019 Tape Label Pinot Noir, 2019 Reserve Pinot
Noir, and the 2018 Farmer’s Ditch Red, which was a blend of pinot and merlot.
This smooth, easy drinking blend was the winner for me that day with its notes
of juicy cherry, mix of exotic and pie spices, hint of chocolate, and the
customary chalky red fruit. This place got me hooked on pinot noirs from Colorado.
My next time in Paonia was that
following summer. Our first stop that day was to Qutori Wines, where I had another
Paonia pinot experience. Part of the Roots and Vine Market Café, we had a
delightful time trying the various wines as we waited for lunch. A winery with
a wide, wide selection of choices, I was astounded by the number of pinot noirs
they made, and I had to try them all. This included the Estate Pinot Noir Rose
2020, 2018 Estate Pinot Noir, 2018 Estate Bourbon Barrel Aged Pinot Noir, and
the 2017 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir. I was impressed with each of these bottles
for their creamy red cherry and berry notes, but I particularly loved the rosé.
This style of wine is truly hit or miss for me, so I was excited by how
enthralled I was with this wine and its notes of white cherry, pineapple,
grapefruit, and light baking spice. This winery was a true pinot making
powerhouse.
Becoming a happy, yearly tradition,
I once again found myself in Colorado Pinot Country in June of 2022. The first
winery stop was to Williams Cellars in Cedaredge. Located in The AppleShed, a
building housing a gallery, gift shop, and café, you were able to try a variety
of wines in their tasting room and grab a glass to take with you as you
shopped. They had many exceptional wines, I bought five bottles, and their 2017
Moondance Pinot Noir was one of these. A soft and silky beauty, it was the
perfect addition to my pinot noir collection.
The second stop of the day was back
to Black Bridge, where I was once again wowed by their pinot selection. During
this visit, I tried their 2020 Tape Label Pinot Noir, 2020 Reserve Pinot Noir,
and their Raven Lunatic Red Table Wine, a blend of pinot noir and tempranillo. All
three scoring over eight on my ten-point scale, I came home with the reserve
bottling, for its Colorado creamy red fruit taste, and the Raven Lunatic, as its
raven label and bold and broody taste brought images of a cool, October day to
mind. Not wanting to miss out on their Tape Label version, I enjoyed a glass of
this while we waited out the rain so my brother could propose to his then
girlfriend, now wife. The pinot noirs from this place will always conjure up
happy memories.
This year was no different, and I
once again got to experience this delightful area in September as an early
birthday celebration for my mom. And, out of the three wineries we went to,
each one had a pinot noir choice.
The first stop was to 5680’
Vineyards, housed in this great tasting room that almost looked like a shed.
The wines and owner were wonderful, and I was absolutely delighted with their
2018 Pinot Noir and its notes of raspberry, rosehip, and spice.
Wanting some food and, of course,
more wine, we made our way back to Qutori Wines and the Roots and Vine Market
Café. Here, I enjoyed a glass of their Estate Pinot Noir with my meal and
pilfered some of my sister-in-law’s glass of White Pinot Noir. Crisp and
delicious with a white cherry note, white pinot noirs are such a rarity, I had
to buy both myself and my best friend a bottle.
Our final stop that day led me to
one of my favorite pinots from this area thus far. Stone Cottage Cellars is
situated up a slightly winding road where the end result is vines, mountain views,
and a beautiful stone cottage. Snagging a couple of their chairs, and the
camping chairs my parents conveniently had in the back of their SUV, we sat
around an outdoor barrel table, enjoying quality wine after quality wine. One
of these was their 2018 Pinot Noir. Greeted once again with that customary
creamy cherry and spice note that makes up so many Colorado pinot noirs, I just
had to purchase one of these outstanding bottles, not only for its amazing
taste, but also for the happy memories it would conjure up when I opened the
bottle. Now, I just wish I would have purchased at least one more.
Discovering the West Elks AVA wine scene has been one of my favorite wine adventures to date. Discovering that they are the “Pinot Kings” of Colorado has made a favorite adventure epic. I can’t wait to see what this area continues to bring, and I can’t wait to drink more and more of their creamy and delicious pinot noirs.
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